Calpe and the iconic Peñon de Ifach

The locals call it Calp, but to the rest of the many visitors who come to this vibrant Mediterranean seaside town, it is Calpe, instantly recognised by the iconic and majestic Peñon de Ifach, a huge, isolated rock rising 332 meters out of the sea and linked to the town by a narrow isthmus of land. The Peñon has stood guard over the town and witnessed its transformation from sleepy little fishing village into a lively tourist magnet. Even before the Romans came to the area, the Peñon was considered by biologists and researchers as a small island until it became connected to the mainland. Closely resembling the rock of Gibraltar, the Phoenicians gave it the name of the Northern Rock to differentiate it. Ifach means north in Phoenician.

Today the rock is not just a symbol of the town but a marketing image for the whole of the Costa Blanca. Privately owned until 1987, it reverted to the protection of the Generalitat Valenciana, which declared it a Natural Park as it is home to many rare local plants, over 300 different species of animals and is an annual breeding ground for large colonies of seabirds. The sight of the Peñon can certainly be enjoyed from afar or from the many fish restaurants sheltering at its base but for those that like a challenge, you can climb to the peak where on a clear day Ibiza can be seen on the distant horizon. If you don’t have a head for heights, then you can catch a little ferry boat from the marina that sails around its base.

The town itself combines old Valencian culture and modern tourist facilities and isa great base from which to explore the local area or simply to enjoy the many local beaches and superb restaurants specialising in locally caught seafood. A fish market is held every day in the port and there is also a lively Saturday market. The Peñon watches over three of the most beautiful sandy beaches on the coast as well as the modern Paseo Maritimo where you can see the recently discovered remains of a Roman villa, once forming part of the Roman fish factory, known as the Banys de la Reina (Queens Bath). The two main beaches are Playa Levante (La Fossa), and Playa Del Arenal (Bol).

El Paradero de Ifach

Ask people of a certain age, or those interested in history, about the Parador of Ifach.They will probably know it by its later incarnation as El Paradero de Ifach, the first tourist hotel in Calpe and inaugurated on 25 May,1935 with great excitement by its founding fathers, a collaboration between the Giner and Garcia families. The hotel was located on the sea front above the cove of Cantal Roig and was further developed under the watchful eye of Doña Pilar Vives Santacreu, wife of founder and mayor of Calpe, Antonio García Sapena. Its name was later changed to the Paradero so not to be confused by the National Paradores chain of hotels.

The Paradero de Ifach stood alone under the Peñon’s gaze for many years and welcomed not only national guests but international visitors of great reputation. When the N332 was the main road linking the north of the Mediterranean coastal route to the south, the Paradero was a convenient stopping off point. Ernest Hemingway, Orson Welles, Ava Gardner, Gregory Peck and many other stars and celebrities were made welcome at the El Paradero. In 1998, the Grande Dame of Costa Blanca hospitality finally gave way to modernisation and closed its doors for the last time as a hotel. Today the site has been developed into a residential complex, but the history and tradition of the original pioneering hostelry surely remains. If only those walls could speak, what wonderful memories they would tell. Check out this wonderful blog featuring an evocative video documenting the history of the hotel:

Ifach's whereabouts: "story of adream". – The Blog of José Luis Luri (joseluisluri.com)

La Muralla Roja

For the visitor that wants to explore further, La Muralla Rojo is an equally iconic image of Calpe and a favourite of Instagrammers. Situated just three kilometres from the Peñon and overlooking the sea, The Red Wall, as it can be called in English, is an impressive postmodern apartment complex designed by the architect Ricardo Bofill Levi who sadly passed away in 2022. Completed in 1973, the building references Mediterranean and Arab architecture found in North African adobe towers and the seemingly haphazard development of a casbah. Based on the geometric symbol of the Greek cross, an internal series of courtyards connect to each other from where the apartments are accessed and high up on covered terraces, painted sky blue, there can be found solariums, a swimming pool and sauna. As its name suggests, the building is very red in colour although blue features at a higher level. Shapes, colours, and shadows change throughout the day, so you’ll be sure to capture a great image at whatever time you go.

Calpe Old Town

Uphill on the Avenida Gabriel Miro from the seafront and you will notice an archway with brightly coloured steps leading to Calpe Old Town. The ancient walls of the town surround an area with cobbled streets, a beautiful 15th century church and many excellent restaurants and bars. It’s a great place to explore on foot as there is a handy 24-hour car park in the plaza mayor.

Calpe Salt Flats - Las Salinas

Salt, that most precious of commodities, was worked in Calpe for centuries providing a livelihood for many local families. The salt mines ended in 1988, but the flooded saltwater marshland close to the centre of the town remains as a reminder of those days. Today the salt flats, or Las Salinas, is a protected natural area and attract hundreds of species of birds, the most famous being the pink flamingos and storks.